Leather polish ~ dressing ~ tonic ~ wax

Leather surfaces that are smooth (as opposed to suedes, and patent leather) will accept a variety of polishes (think of shoes). To a certain extent they can revive the appearance, and even the quality, of leather. They cannot mask leather that is worn and in need of repair.

Many wax polishes are a blend of waxes from the petroleum industry, with fairly potent chemicals used to soften the wax. These have a pungent smell, especially when fresh out of the tin. The intent is for the softening agent to evaporate and leave a harder layer of wax behind. This can be softened by heat. A good rub with a suitable cloth will generate sufficient friction to do this.

When applying any form of wax to leather with gilt or other markings, such as hot foil stamping, the solvent may attack the adhesive or even the decorative material.

The use of strong solvents on conservation materials is not a good idea for the general public (and maybe for expert conservationists also: they know what can and cannot be done).

Waxes for fine leather dressing are usually made from natural materials. They usually have secret formulations. Smell might give-away some of the secrets, and browsing the WWW for such recipes will give an indication of the likely materials, though maybe not their proportions. I currently use a leather wax polish, which calls itself a dressing (such a title is good for a hike in the price). The tin states that it contains beeswax, lanolin, and neatsfoot oil. Tallow is another often quoted ingredient.

Anything waxed becomes hydrophobic. Water-based pastes and glues such as PVA or EVA are unlikely to perform properly. I try to turn this to advantage by hoping that accidental glue splodges (to which I am quite prone) will bounce-off the waxed leather surface, and also that glue will not penetrate the pores of the leather if they are sealed with wax. Remember that a drop of PVA on some leathers, even if immediately removed with a wet cloth, will make a shiny patch and leave a stain. Even the dampened patch is likely to remain visible for ever. Flour-based pastes are more forgiving, and if correctly applied they are just as good at doing their main job: as they have done for centuries.

I take the greatest care when polishing a finished book if there is any chance of polish creeping onto the papers. When there are squares then there is a small safetly margin. With a flush binding I wax the leather beforehand, and then let it dry for a day or two. The natural ingredients of the dressing I use are much slower to evaporate away, leaving the wax to do its job. The maker suggests a day to dry. That's a good job to be done in quiet moments, and well in advance.

 


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